NACASIO, Calif. — Devil’s Gulch Ranch’s varied menu can satisfy any appetites, whether they belong to customers at farmers markets or diners at upscale restaurants.

The name Devil’s Gulch — also known as Spirit Canyon — comes from Native American legend. Both names derive from the eerie sounds that come from the depths of the ravine when the wind blows.

“Rabbits are my favorite crop,” said owner Myriam Kaplan-Pasternak. “They are wonderful to work with, adaptable to different climates, mentally challenging and so versatile; nothing goes to waste.”

Myriam, who is also a veterinarian, and her family raise wine grapes and rabbits, pigs, sheep, heritage chickens, poussin, squab and quail.

The rabbits are fed a pelleted alfalfa ration. Sheep graze in the vineyards, and the pigs’ diet includes byproducts and returns from local producers, including whole milk, cheese, whey, tortillas and spent brewer’s grain.

The animals may lounge in the fields without worry, but ranching in California has its challenges.

“The biggest problem is maintaining a profit margin; with the cost of all the overhead requirements like interest rates, insurance and labor and payroll taxes all going up,” she said. “While on the flip side the price of food can’t keep up and is limited by what people can pay.”

The farmer is left with a dwindling profit margin and growing debt, she said.

“We really needed another year of support from the government to help small farmers recover while the restaurant industry rebuilds,” she added.

Family farms are the most essential resource this country has for maintaining its resilience in the event of a disaster of any kind, Myriam said.

“We saw what happened during the pandemic with pigs being buried because slaughter plants could not function without workers and transportation failure could not distribute food to where it was needed,” she said. “Money couldn’t solve this issue with broken infrastructure. What solved the problem in many areas was local farmers who stepped up to meet demand and saw to it that local communities had their food needs met with little delay.”

The ranch is also popular with farmers market consumers.

“Devil’s Gulch Ranch fills a unique niche at the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market, with their sustainably raised rabbits, pork and poultry,” said Lulu Meyer, director of operations of Foodwise, the nonprofit that runs the market. “In addition to the hard work of managing Devil’s Gulch Ranch’s day-to-day operations, co-owner Myriam Kaplan-Pasternak has also dedicated her life to teaching and mentoring aspiring farmers in Haiti and other countries to learn more about agriculture and agricultural work opportunities.”

The farm also sells to a laundry list of restaurants, including the French Laundry in Yountville and the Ritz Carlton Hotel’s restaurant in San Francisco.

Myriam’s passion for humanitarian work also spurred her and her husband Mark to open their working farm to host international students to gain hands-on training.