REEDLEY, Calif. — Amber Balakian remembers growing up on the family farm — going to farmers markets, playing in the irrigated rows of vegetables and eating fresh produce right off the vine.

“My great-grandfather, Zadig Balakian, came over to live during the Armenian genocide,” she said. “My grandmother, Stella, met my grandfather, John Balakian, and began farming the Fresno County ranch that we still continue farming today.”

The 20-acre certified organic farm now boasts 50 varieties of tomatoes as the primary crop.

Amber credits her mother with transitioning to heirloom tomatoes in the 1990s as a means of developing a niche in the marketplace.

The farm also grows organic peaches, nectarines, plums, pomegranates, figs, grapes squash, eggplants and Armenian cucumbers, according to its website.

Amber has also developed a line of “Organic Blended Heirloom Tomatoes” in jars that can be used as a tasty ingredient for a variety of dishes and a “Not So Bloody Mary Mix” for cocktails using the blemished tomatoes.

“I was determined to find a way to create value from the non-valued, and so I set out to create something beautiful, unique and delicious…,” she said on the farm’s website.

Not all of the tomatoes are harvested at the same time.

“Tomatoes ripen from the bottom up and each variety differs in when they are ready,” she said. “With heirlooms, it really depends on certain factors like the temperature, variety, etc., which can change from year to year.”

Balakian’s favorites are the Marvel Stripe, a gold-and-red tomato that can grow to 4 inches in diameter, and the Chocolate Stripe, a dark red heirloom tomato with dark green stripes.

Because the farm is organic it can run into issues with pests. Nematodes are the most common pests in the area, she said.

In addition, another pest has attacked her business and many others — COVID-19. Balakian said the virus has taken a bite out of the farm’s sales, primarily to restaurants, which were closed or shifted to survival mode with carry-out orders.

Many of her customers are chefs and restaurants, so the closures have had an severe impact.

Farmers market attendance has also been lower, cutting into sales.

However, markets have started selling community supported agriculture subscriptions that have helped offset some of the sales decreases.

The Balakians are also regulars at one of San Francisco’s most prominent farmers markets.

“The Balakians have been a part of the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market for more than 20 years,” said Christine Farren, executive director of CUESA, which operates the market at the city’s Embarcadero. “Generous in nature, committed to their craft, and talented in farming, they have a loyal following.”

As an inter-generational farm with deep roots in the Central Valley, they exemplify sustainable farming with their dedication to organic stewardship and preserving delicious heirloom varieties, Farren said.

At a time when the industry needs young farmers more than ever, she said it is inspiring to see next-generation women farmers such as Amber innovating through value-add products, while carrying on the family farming legacy.

“It is equally important that Amber, who is Armenian and African American, reshape the public’s perspective of who can be a farmer, as diversity in farm ownership strengthens our food system and enables greater equity,” Farren said.

Hometown: Reedley, Calif.

Age: 34

Education: B.A., economics, University of California-San Diego, master’s degree in management and operations, Harvard University

Occupation: Fourth-generation owner, manager Balakian Farms

Personal statement: Matthew 17:20: “Jesus replied, Because you have so little faith. Truly I tell you, if you have faith as small as a mustard seed, you can say to this mountain, ‘Move from here to there,’ and it will move. Nothing will be impossible for you.”