Western Innovator: Cheese with a small footprint

Published 7:00 am Thursday, June 16, 2022

WILLITS, Calif. — Shamrock Artisan cheesemakers Gilbert and Ana Cox have been practicing their art of cheese making for over 37 years.

It all began with their daughter’s 4-H project goat named “Manna Bitsy.”

They have been raising dairy goats since 1972 and in the cheese and dairy business since 1985, originally in Carmel Valley as Carmel Valley Chevre, she said.

“We moved our business to Mendocino County in 2001,” Ana said. “Mendocino County is a wonderful pro-agriculture county that has welcomed our business with open arms and great enthusiasm.”

The herd of 164 Alpine, La Macha and Nubian goats graze on 130 acres. The goats are fed hay grown on the ranch and are milked twice a day.

“Every batch of cheese is made with top-quality milk,” Cox said.

The array of cheese is made entirely on the farm. The menu includes Plain Chevre, Basil Chevre Feta, Shamrock Bouchon, Garlic Chevre, Chive Chevre, Ashed Tomette, Dill Chevre, Jalapeno Chevre and Tome du Mendocino.

“We are a farmstead operation,” she said. “We produce the milk, and the cheese is made in our creamery. We are environmentally friendly and the cheese mirrors that.”

The cheeses are hand-made and hand-packaged, she said.

The goats are fed the whey that is left over from the cheese making.

“They love it, it’s also good for them, and it means we don’t have to dispose of it,” she said. “All our cheeses are made with vegetable rennet and not from animal sources.”

The farm also recycles the water used in manufacturing, she said.

“In short, we leave as small a carbon footprint as possible,” Cox said.

The farm even has fans in the state Capitol.

“One of the most fun parts of my job as a California Assembly member is traveling throughout Assembly District 2, which spans five counties and runs from Santa Rosa to the Oregon border,” said Assembly member Jim Wood, D-Santa Rosa.

“A while back, I visited Shamrock Artisan Goat Cheese in Willits, where they create awesome farmstead cheeses, hand-crafted in the heart of beautiful Mendocino County. I met with Ana Cox, who with her husband Gilbert operates the farm.”

Small farms play a big role in his district, he said.

“Small businesses are the bedrock of the counties I have the honor to represent, and I’m always so impressed with the dedication and quality these businesses bring to our communities and, in this case, while preserving family farming,” he said.

Shamrock Artisan sells its cheese at many regional markets, including local health food stores and co-ops.

Hometown: Willits, Calif.

Occupation: Rancher and dairy woman, Shamrock Artisan Goat Cheese

Family: Husband, Gilbert Cox, who is also the cheesemaker, and two adult children,

Quote: “We at Shamrock Artisan Goat Cheese are committed to maintaining a family farm and producing high-quality artisan cheese.”

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