SANTA PAULA, Calif. — Organic avocado and citrus grower Will Brokaw says he is glad to see 2020 gone, but concerns remain.

“The biggest challenge for me and other fruit growers is foreign competition that is driving prices down,” he said. “Up until the early 1990s, domestic avocado production enjoyed complete protection from foreign imports. Now different countries have been allowed to start exporting avocados into all 50 states. First was Chile, then the super-behemoth Mexico and then Peru.”

Previously, California avocados were regularly exported throughout the world, but now Mexico provides 90% of the domestic supply.

Brokaw’s parents, Hank and Ellen Brokaw, started the 200-acre ranch in 1967. About 150 acres are devoted to avocados and the rest grow a wide variety of specialty fruits.

Most of the avocados and specialty fruit are sold in the commercial market, in direct competition with imports, and at farmers markets.

While it’s true that there are a lot more avocado eaters today in the world, Brokaw said the scary thing is that there are vast acres of newly planted avocado groves in Central and South America that haven’t even started producing.

According to Lulu Meyer, CUESA’s director of operations, Brokaw Ranch has had its fair share of difficulties over the past few years. In addition to the flood of overseas competition, wildfires ravaged much of their orchards in 2017, forcing them to replant.

CUESA operates the farmers market at the San Francisco ferry terminal, one of several Brokaw frequents.

Then the global pandemic hit in 2020 and many restaurants were shut down, causing a tremendous loss of sales for farms like Brokaw Ranch.

Brokaw used the pandemic as an opportunity to innovate. He changed his approach to direct consumer sales and began offering a more full-service retail experience, with pre-packed boxes.

Consumers can order the boxes, which cost $30 to $40 and include assortments of avocados and fruits. They can pick up the boxes at the farmers market of their choice.

Brokaw says the sloping land and ridge tops on the ranch are perfect for his crops.

The “fruit bowl” of crops grown there include avocados, cherimoyas (the hardest to grow), feijoas (also called pineapple guava), grapefruit, guava, kiwis, kumquats, lemons, limes, lychee (the most unusual), mandarins, mangoes, oranges and pomelos.

Avocados weren’t always well-known in the U.S. It wasn’t easy selling consumers on the exotic fruit. The first railcar of California avocados was shipped to New York in January of 1927. The reception was less than enthusiastic. A sales report stated, “The Eastern market doesn’t want black fruit.”

Today, Brokaw’s avocados and other specialty fruits are popular with the crowds at farmers markets in Santa Cruz, Berkeley and San Francisco.

“Brokaw Ranch has been a staple at the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market for almost three decades, and while they may be most famous for their avocados, they also have a cult following for their subtropical and citrus varieties,” Meyer said. “Will Brokaw, or the ‘Avocado Man’ as so many shoppers refer to him, is the face of the ranch at our markets, and his stand has always been a favorite stop for so many of the restaurant chefs who shop on Saturdays.”

Hometown: Santa Paula, Calif.

Occupation: Fruit grower, manages all farmers market and direct restaurant sales.

Quote: “Brokaw Ranch is a multi-generational agricultural family business that honors the legacy of its founders, Hank and Ellen Brokaw, by achieving excellence and success with innovation, integrity and leadership, including social and environmental stewardship.”