ACAMPO, Calif. — Cherry farmer Missy Gotelli says cherries are the riskiest crop to grow because Mother Nature is always in control.

“The growing calendar starts in April until the end of June,” she said. “We prune, irrigate and when frost comes in February, it has a huge impact.”

The Gotelli family emigrated from Italy in the early 1900s and planted cherries along the Calaveras River in San Joaquin County. Those orchards eventually grew into a family business. The Gotellis offer many varieties during cherry season, including Golden, Rainier, and Brooks, which are all well-adapted to the climate of the San Joaquin Valley.

In the 1950s, brothers Al and Del Gotelli developed a machine for sorting cherries, which made the process of shipping them much more efficient. They patented and began manufacturing their invention, which soon was in use all over the West Coast.

Cherries have a short season, and a healthy crop needs chillier winters and a ripening period without rain. The unwanted rain can split the growing cherries.

Missy oversees 148 acres in Lodi and Kern counties.

Gotelli Farms sells cherries at farmers markets throughout Northern California including Sacramento, Midtown, Danville, Davis, San Mateo, Sunnyvale, Vallejo, Santa Clara, Castro, Valley, Grand Lake, Folsom and Pleasanton.

Brie Mazurek, communications director of Foodwise has some compliments for Gotelli Farms.

“You always know spring has officially arrived when Gotelli Farms returns for the season. Their beautifully ripe and freshly picked cherries are always a much-anticipated treat at Foodwise’s Mission Community Market,” she said. “Missy’s dedication to the family legacy has been instrumental as the Gotellis bring their delicious Brooks, Bings and Rainiers to California farmers markets.”

Although growing cherries is sweet, according to Missy, sometimes doing business in California is not.

“The cost of labor is exorbitant,” she said. “There is the $15.50 minimum wage plus overtime. Water is a major issue, too.”

But, she has a tasty tip for cherry fans:

The best way to eat cherries? “Fresh off the tree.”