Farmers estimate about a third of Oregon vineyards grow grapes organically, but only 3% of wineries use the USDA organic label, said Drew Herman, director of viticulture for Alexana Estates Vineyard & Winery.

Herman said many businesses don’t seek out the certification because of confusion and misguided rules.

Experts said that represents a huge missed opportunity with growing interest in organic products, especially among younger consumers.

The Organic Winegrowers Network recently formed with hopes of changing policy and boosting the segment.

The network, conference

Herman said the network started when organically-focused farmers gathered for coffee once a month.

“This is kind of a way to get everybody organized and just marketing together, making decisions together,” Herman said.

The group can provide proof that organic vineyards succeed and Herman hopes to convince more farmers to grow organically.

“We all believe the highest quality wines are coming from organically produced fruit,” Herman said.

The network is hosting the inaugural Organically Grown Wine Conference March 22 at Alexana in Newberg, Ore.

More than 20 other organically-focused wine businesses are scheduled to participate.

The event is open to the public from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. for a tasting and a field tour.

USDA organic, sulfites

Experts said the USDA organic label doesn’t bring value to wineries, despite ample demand, because it prohibits sulfites.

Sulfites prevent spoilage and preserve colors and flavors in wine, essentially allowing it to mature.

Wineries that utilize some forms of sulfites can get a USDA organic grape designation and use that on labels. However, those wines can’t include the USDA organic seal, which functions as a trusted brand for consumers.

Gwendolyn Wyard, founding partner of consulting firm Strengthening Organic Systems, said the U.S. and European Union have different organic wine certifications, and the EU allows sulfites.

“It’s only been growing in Europe. There’s organic wine everywhere (in the EU), but not here in the United States,” Wyard said.

She thinks that the USDA won’t support a wholesale transition to allowing sulfites. The last effort in that direction failed about 15 years ago.

Intermediate steps could lead to more organic vineyards and greater support, Wyard said.

That could include allowing small- and medium-sized wineries to use powdered sulfites and still use labels that say the wine is made with organic grapes.

Organic benefits

The USDA certified organic wine could help the industry capture a new market, said Amy Wong, director of the Oregon Organic Coalition.

Wine drinkers generally trend older and younger generations have shown they purchase organic products more often because they care about the environment and responsible practices.

The USDA organic label also could bolster Oregon vineyards’ premium position with the global wine industry facing a glut of supply.

Oregon Pinot noir already has great recognition, Wong said, but organic Oregon Pinot noir could be even better for business.

“We need to be able to use the seal,” Herman said.

Transition to organic

Herman joined Alexana two years ago and started the process of switching to organic, which requires three years under USDA rules.

“You can transition without an insane cost increase and you can actually grow better fruit,” Herman said.

He added that with organic systems, growers focus on feeding the soil rather than feeding the plant and that enhances flavors.