Mixed weather impacts Idaho, Washington vineyards as harvest continues

Published 4:45 pm Thursday, October 5, 2023

James Nederend has about twice as long to harvest his southwest Idaho vineyards as he had in the previous three years.

The return to a more normal harvest timetable means crop intake can better align with fermentation and other activities, the Koenig Vineyards and Scoria Vineyards co-owner and winemaker said.

“It’s easier on us,” Nederend said.

He expects to wrap up his approximately two-month harvest at the end of October.

The Koenig and Scoria harvest following the 2020-2022 seasons was compressed, taking about a month. Key factors included drought in 2020, early heat in 2021 and last year’s wet late spring followed by heat that stretched into fall.

This year’s harvest season of more traditional length benefited Koenig neighbor Ron Bitner, of Bitner Vineyards, as he waited for sugar levels to rise and for acidity to fall. “Because I’ve been doing this for 40 years, I tend to wait for some things,” he said.

Growth in the state’s vineyards started slowly in the wet and cold.

Overall, “yields are a little bit lower than the average year, primarily because of the (early) season and also the rain we got at the end of August,” said Moya Dolsby, Idaho Wine Commission executive director.

Remnants of Hurricane Hilary dumped more than two inches of rain in some spots in a short period.

“It will be interesting to see how this changes the flavor profile,” Dolsby said. “Currently we are seeing higher acid, but that may not be in all varieties.”

Grapes need air flow, and too much water too soon can cause rot in some varieties, she said. Some four-cluster groups were cut back to three.

August’s heavy storm impacted tight-clustering varieties such as zinfandel reds and riesling whites, said Nederend, who is in the Sunnyslope growing region between Caldwell and Marsing. Excess water can seep between berries — which can swell and even split — and into vines at an inopportune time.

“Varieties with smaller berries were OK,” he said. “Zinfandel and riesling were most affected. We probably lost half our yield in those two varieties.”

In the Eagle foothills, Mark Pasculli of Rolling Hills Vineyard said he is pleased with his crop.

“Cool weather has slowed things down a little, but overall everything looks good,” Pasculli, who chairs the commission, said of harvest.

Idaho has 75 wineries and about 1,300 acres of vineyards. This year saw some new acres planted and some shifting of varieties grown, Dolsby said.

In Washington, bud break was late in the cool spring “but caught up quickly as bloom was actually early in some cases,” said Heather Bradshaw of the state wine commission. “Since then, the growing season was pretty warm and the weather in September was ideal for extended ripening.”

The crop will be lighter this year, with excellent quality, she said.

“We’re excited about the quality of the fruit,” said Kerry Shiels, winemaker at Cote Bonneville, the estate winery of DuBrul Vineyard in the Yakima Valley.

Yields are more than 30% below average, she said. Berries are small, “which means intense, concentrated high-quality wines. The low yields mean things are ripening early, giving plenty of time for full development.”

Washington has about 1,050 wineries and 60,000 acres of vineyards.

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